![]() ![]() Previously I had wired in a Ford relay on my sbc converted 914 with a standard alternator per Mark's diagram (an-noted below) as I had been experiencing the well known "hot start" problem. So I've run across a (self created) problem and I wonder if Mark might chime in for a solution? ![]() Mark's thread is a great contribution here. A little less current going through the ignition switch is a good thing. Which is pure ignorance.Īfter all that, I have to say while I don't think it's a necessary upgrade I have learned to respect it. Some people seem to have the misunderstanding that all the current that cranks the engine runs through the starter switch. I used to think it was dumb because, after all, the switch is NOT a high current circuit and the real relay is the starter solenoid! The real current happens at the starter solenoid where the big juice comes straight from a big cable to the battery. I confess to having been in the last camp, and now a dwindler. One thing is for sure the opposing Camp's numbers have dwindled in the past couple of years. IIRC, Cap't Crusty was in the camp of those who oppose it. I miss them a lot, but your posts go a long way towards filling the gap they left.Īctually you've got that bass ackwards, Slits was a proponent and offered the Ford relays to us for $6 or less if he liked you. I bet the Cap'n would approve, but Slits would still bitch about something. Also, installed next to the old batteries that emitted some pretty corrosive vapors. You touched on this #2 but I'd like to add that the Ford relay was designed to operate in the engine compartment which becomes quite hot at times. So send that puppy to me and I'll dispose of it properly, I hate them so much I'll even pay you the shipping. Jwest now makes all his parts, but the early versions were a modified Ford Mustang shifter. ![]() If any of you guys who can't stand the thought of a Ford part on a Porsche, but have a Rennshifter, well you better toss that puppy in the trash. That's why I instruct you to only bend the mount using two pliers, experience.ĥ/ The solenoid is fastened to the transmission starter bolt, not the body, so there's almost no vibration strain on the wires.Ħ/Unless you run across a concours weenie who likes to crawl under cars, just to be an ass pointing out everything that is not factory on a person's 914, you're the only person that will ever know.ħ/ When I turn the key the first thing I like to hear is a spinning starter.Ĩ/ I'll think of more reasons, hold my beer. Technically I guess you can say I've had two failures, as a rookie I bent the mount by reefing on the plastic housing and broke one. I've replaced several perfectly good looking SPST relays with a ford unit. ![]() The Ford solenoid must be rated for at least 500 cranking amps, likely much more.Ĥ/ I've personally only had one failure, one that was so badly corroded after 8 winters that the bracket/bottom rusted right off at the rivets and the solenoid literally spilled it's guts in my hand when I took it off. So you must mount the bosch horn relay in the engine bay, run wires through the grommet, tap into a power source, use a fuse, drill a mounting hole and cut the factory wire or at least make an extension/adaptor.ģ/ the SPST relay may be 30-50amp which should be enough on paper, but it still has very small contacts. Before me guy's like Gene Berg have been doing it since the 60's, so this has been a mod done for over 50 years.Ģ/ The Ford solenoid is waterproof, at least damn water resistant, the SPST relay is not at all. I don't want an argument as to which is better but this is my logic:ġ/ I've been doing this forever, not about to change. Many hot-start kits and threads in The Garage use the smaller relay. One question: how is the Ford solenoid different from using a 50 amp relay. Great write up- Admins, please add this to the Classics ![]()
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